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海拔4500米:我们用力呼吸

发布时间:2013-10-25

Text/品牌管理中心宫蕾

这是一次不期而遇的旅程。

“2013年9月9日—12日,作为公司爱心代表我和另一位伙伴杨薇一起前往青海玉树参加了‘安正时尚集团﹒李泉﹒崔岫闻联合清洁电力爱心学校——直美村小学’竣工仪式。这是我第一次去玉树,玉树也同样回赠了我前所未有的触动和震撼。虽然这中间经历了严重的高原反应,但我还是庆幸:我没有错过!”


   两天一夜,艰难的路程,温暖的灯光

9月9日,从上海出发,三个半小时的飞机达到青海西宁,留宿一夜后转机到达玉树。汽车一直在草原的公路上奔跑了3个多小时,中途还经过了震后重建的结古镇,终于在10日傍晚六点到达临时停留地称多县。我们要在这里留宿一晚,然后还有4个小时的车程等着我们,11日下午两点我们才终于到达了最终目的地——直美村小学。

直美村小学位于玉树州称多县扎朵镇(青海三江源地区),海拔4500米,学校共设有三个年级,共63名学生,4位老师。由于这里地处偏僻落后的牧区,交通不便,除了在校人员和地方居民外,无外来人员,也无任何通讯设备,如有紧急通知也只能由人稍口信。这里没有商店,食物、蔬菜或其他生活用品都需提前买来存放,就连用水也要到几十里外去运。


我们到达的直美村小学地处三江源无电区,此前整个小学只能使用鼓风机发电,所发的电能只能供应一台电视和一盏电灯约4个小时,到了夜间只能用蜡烛照明。每当傍晚教室光线变暗时,孩子们就只能拿着课本在教室外面借助微弱的光线看书,一直到天色再也照不出书上的内容。

此次,安正时尚集团在中华环境保护协会“金太阳援助工程”的牵线下,为这里的孩子们捐助了太阳能发站,解决了学校教室与宿舍的用电问题。从此以后,这里的孩子们终于可以不用再点蜡烛看书,而是能够坐在明亮的灯光下学习。

当我们把带来的学习用品、图书、零食依次分发给学校的小朋友时,他们独有的羞涩中带着礼貌,让我们感到舒服。而他们脸上因强烈的紫外线照射而形成的高原红使得他们的笑容更加灿烂。


蔚蓝的天空,稀薄的空气,用力呼吸

行进路途虽然小有险阻,但风光却是一路美过去的。

行车一路四处皆有高原,蓝天上映着哈达般洁白的云朵。那天,真蓝;那云朵,真白。车窗里能看到远处绵延山头的积雪,山上星星点点的牦牛、羊群,还有那公路沿伸射入蓝天白云,每当此时就拿起相机想把这大美之境收录起来。那句“名山之宗、江河之源、牦牛之地、歌舞之乡”的美称原来都埋藏在这一草一木里。有

天很蓝,云很近,如果一路都是这般美好,那将会是一种怎样愉悦心情行进在这天堂里?无奈,中间难免会有小插曲,也正因如此,此行在我们脑海中烙下了深深的烙印。

尽管去之前,做好了充分的思想准备,但是当高原反应终于到来的时候,还是让我们措手不及。高反这个东西来势汹汹,瞬间我们就像是被霜打的茄子一样,那是一种由内而外,像要爆炸了似的痛,胸闷,呼吸困难,觉得空气里似乎能用的氧气越来越少,此时体会到什么叫做这个脑袋有千斤重,恨不得把脑袋敲掉。尽管有备用的医用氧气袋,但是始终不能压制住那种由于缺氧所带来的不适,所以奋力呼吸。


那人、那寺院、那一片美丽的格桑花

一个没有精神生活的人是可悲的,所以这里的人们应该都是幸福的,因为他们都有自己的信仰和追求。玉树康巴藏区全民信教,据说玉树大大小小的寺院有500多座,这些寺庙有的建于悬崖峭壁之上,有的建于平缓的草场上,但不论建于何处,寺庙都是因地制宜,巧妙地利用当地的自然地形地貌。

趁着回程飞机起飞前的空档,前去了离玉树机场车程10分钟左右的文成公主庙。进入白纳沟那一刻开始,就觉得无比神圣,大峡谷两边的山脉上密密麻麻布满了各种颜色的哈达。文成公主庙背靠嵯峨险峻的岩壁,傍临清流见底的溪水。庙里的喇嘛告诉我们进了庙需要给如来佛祖和八大菩萨献上哈达,还在喇嘛的亲身教导下第一次体验了“五体投地式”的朝拜。在这里,我的心如他们一般虔诚和崇拜。


编者感:

沿途美景让我们兴奋和惊叹,一路的高原反应让我们失去了很多看美景的心情,但是一路陪伴和热情照顾的藏民以及那些可爱质朴害羞的孩子们让我们倍感温暖。本以为自己会很勇敢,可以洒脱的丢下一切,但在踏入回家的行程开始,一刻都不想停留,等到安全到家时,突然感觉很幸福,原来我们是属于这儿的。然后心底里留下一句话:等到风景看尽,你是否还能静得下心来看细水长流!

可能只有在特定的环境里,我们才能意识到一些事物的或者一些人的重要性,就像是在海拔4500米的高空,我们那么急切的需要更多的氧气。在车水马龙的城市里,日常一成不变的生活,有时候我们会觉得自己的生活很乏味、很矫情!无聊可以上网、聊天!冷了热了可以开空调,脏了可以想洗澡洗澡,下班了挤挤地铁就到家了!这就是我们习以为常的生活,一种普通到不能再普通的生活!可是于那些在高原上三江源区的人们来说,这是多么奢侈的事!

可能没亲身到过那个地方,我们一辈子也不会体会到高原上那些对生命的坚守!短短三天行程,可能在我的脑海里也只会停留十天半个月,但是那些高原上的身影和艰难体验将永远刻在我的脑海里,警示着我们:珍惜当下,珍爱生命。


Text/Gong Lei from the Brand Management Center


This is an unexpected journey.


“From September 9th to 12th 2013, being an charity ambassador of the Company, I and another companion Yang Wei will head to Yushu in Qinghai Province to attend the completion ceremony of ‘Anzheng Fashion Group ﹒Li Quan﹒Cui Youwen Joint Clean Electricity Charity School-Zhimeicun School’. This was the first time I have been to Yushu, which also provided me with unparalleled touches and shocks. In spite of the severe altitude stress, I still felt lucky that I did it!”


Two-day-one-night’s hard journey, warm lights


On September 9th, we departed Shanghai and took three and half an hour’s flight to arrive in Xining, Qinghai Province. Staying in Xining over the night, the next day we took another flight to Yushu.


The bus traveled over 3 hours on the road in the grassland. We passed through the Jiegu Town, rebuilt after the disastrous earthquake, and eventually arrived at the temporary stop-Chengduo County-at 6pm on the 10th. We would be staying here for the night and then taking another 4 hours’ drive. At 2pm on the 11th, we eventually arrived at our destination-Zhimeicun Primary School.


Zhimeicun Primary School, located in Zhaduo Town of Chengduo County, Yushu State (Sanjiangyuan region of Qinghai Province), was 4500 meters above sea level. The entire school had three grades, 63 students, and four teachers in total. As it was located in remote and backward husbandry area, the transportation was rather inconvenient. Apart from school staff and students and local residents, there have never been any outsiders or communication facilities. Emergency notices would have to be passed verbally as well. Here had no shops, therefore, all the foods, vegetables or other daily supplies had to be bought in advanced for storage. Even water was carried from tens of miles away.


Our destination, Zhimeicun Primary School, was located in the area without electricity; therefore, the school had to generate power with air blowers. The power generated by air blowers was only sufficient enough for one TV and one lamp to last for about four hours. At night people had to use candles. Around dusk when the light was dimmed in the classroom, children had to take their text books out of the classroom to read under dim light until it became too dark to see the words written in the text books.


With the assistance from the “Golden Sun New Energy Charity Project” of China Environment Protection Association, Anzheng Fashion Group donated solar power generation station for the children, which provided electricity to the classrooms and dormitories. Ever since then, children would no longer have to read under candle light but study under bright lamp instead.


When we gave the study supplies, picture books, and snacks to the children in the school, their unique shyness and good manner greatly pleased us. The Vermillion of Plateau caused by the strong ultraviolet radiation made their smile even more remarkable and brilliant.


Blue sky, thin air, breathe harder


In spite of the minor dangers and setbacks, the entire journey seemed quite picturesque.


All the way we saw plateaus and white clouds in the blue sky. The sky was really blue, and the cloud was really white. From the window we could see the snow on top of the winding mountains, specks of yaks and sheep herds on the mountain, and the winding mountain roads extending all the way to the blue sky and white clouds. Whenever I recollected this, I couldn’t help recording the beautiful landscape in my camera. The honors of “ancestor of all famous mountains, origin of all rivers, land of yaks, and homeland of songs and dances” have been hidden in every grass and tree here.


The sky was blue and clouds seemed so close. If the entire journey was beautiful like this, how wonderful and pleasant it would be to set off such a wonderful journey! However, life is full of unforeseen mishaps. And it were the unforeseen mishaps that were deeply imprinted in our memories.


We thought we have well prepared for the plateau stress. However when we were actually encountered by it, we were still surprised. Plateau stress was rather overwhelming. Instantly we were like frost dozen eggplants. It was the kind of pain that went from inside out. It caused chest distress, dyspnea, and made you feel the oxygen in the air was becoming less and less. Until then did we know what it was really like when you felt your head weigh tons, which drove you crazy and made you anxious to get rid of it. In spite of the medical oxygen bag, we couldn’t eliminate all the discomfort caused by lack of oxygen. We had to breathe hard.


The people, the temple, and the beautiful galsang flowers


A person without spiritual life is pathetic. So I guess people here are happy because they have their own belief and pursuit. All people living in Kangba Tibetan area in Yushu have their religious belief. It has been reported that Yushu has over 500 temples. Some have been built along the steep cliffs, while others have been built on plain grassland. Wherever they are, the temples are made in accordance with the local conditions by making full use of the local natural landforms.


Before on-boarding the plane on journey back, we took our time to the Wencheng Princess Temple, which is ten minutes’ drive from Yushu Airport. The moment we entered Bainagou, we felt greatly awed. The mountains on both sides of the grand canyon were filled with Kha-btags of all colors. Wencheng Princess Temple, leaning against the precipitous cliffs, was accompanied by crystal clear rivers and brooks. The Lama in the temple told us that we need to present Kha-btags to Rulaifo bonzeand eight honorable Buddhas once we entered the temple. With Lama’s supervision, we experience the “five body parts cast style” of admiration. Here we were as devout and sincere as the others.


Words from the editor:


The beautiful landscape along the way amazed and surprised us, however the plateau stress deprived us of the desire to appreciate the beautiful sceneries. In spite of that, the company and warm attention from the Tibetan people and the lovely children gave us so much warmth. I thought I was a brave person and could leave everything behind with ease, but when I set off the journey back home, I couldn’t wait. Arriving at home safely, suddenly I felt I was so lucky because I belonged here. However I remembered: after all those beautiful sceneries, do you still have the mood to appreciate the gently flowing streams!


Probably, only under certain circumstance could we realize the significance of certain things or certain people. It was like when we were at 4500 meters above sea level that we were so eager to demand more oxygen. In busy urban life, the monotonous life sometimes makes us feel life is so boring and dull! When we are bored, we can surf internet and chat online! When we are cold or hot we can turn on air conditioner; when we feel dirty we can take a bath as you can take a subway home after finishing one day’s work! This is our routine life, which is so common to all of us! However to those people living in Sanjiangyuan Region high above the high altitude, how luxurious our daily routine is!


If we hadn’t been there, we would never be able to understand the hard life on the plateau! The three-day journey might only stay in my mind for ten or 15 days at most, however, the people living on the plateau and the hardships they are going through will stay in my mind for ever, and constantly remind us to cherish what we have now and cherish our lives.


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